A couple weeks ago I started digging through the world of North Carolina whiskey. I’ve only scratched the surface, but I already feel like I’ve uncovered some true gems in terms of remarkable flavors and companies. Today we’re looking at Southern Start Double Rye — the last bottle that I picked up on that liquor store run, but it definitely won’t be the last bottle of North Carolina spirits you see here.
History
Born in Statesville, North Carolina, Pete Barger spent twenty years working as an industrial engineer before coming to the realization that he really didn’t want to be doing that anymore. Together with his wife Vienna, the couple decided in 2013 to purchase a 20 acre farm in his hometown of Statesville and open a whiskey distillery. It made perfect sense — Pete’s background in industrial design and engineering lent itself to the task, and by 2014 whiskey had started flowing out of their brand new stills.
While the facility and the company are newcomers to the whiskey production scene, Pete has noted in interviews that they are simply carrying on the rich tradition of whiskey distilling that has been a staple of the North Carolina economy for generations. The rich fertile soil and excellent weather conditions in the state make it ideal for growing crops, and once farmers started having an excess of grains at the end of the year they naturally turned to the time honored tradition for how to turn spoiling plants into cash: whiskey distilling.
Southern Distilling Company is a distillery designed to make good bottles of spirits for sale under their own label, but also markets their services heavily to other facilities and offers the ability to “white label” products for sale under other brands’ labels.
Product
Most distilleries these days tend to bottle individual “runs” of whiskey: a single batch of spirits for each brand of their product. It’s the same concept as a “single malt” whiskey from Scotland, for example. But there’s something to be said about the art of blending, producing two distinct and different strains of whiskey and combining them in just the right way to make something amazing. And especially for a distillery that seems to be trying to get into the “white label” mass production business, this is as much of a business card and an advertisement for their services as it is a bottle of whiskey.
The specific details of the whiskeys aren’t really disclosed, but we know that at least two distinct strains of rye whiskey are blended together to make this bottle. As a rye whiskey, the legal requirement is that at least 51% of the grains used for the spirit have to be rye, but the exact proportion and the other components aren’t really disclosed. Those grains are milled, cooked, and then fermented in one of Southern Distilling’s large stainless steel open-top fermenters to create the mildly alcoholic “distiller’s beer” that is the source for their whiskey.
The next part seems to be right up founder Pete Barger’s alley: distillation. Using their Vendome copper pot and column stills, the distillery concentrates the alcohol in that distiller’s beer and selectively captures the elements they need to create the flavor profile they want for their whiskey. The resulting raw spirit is then placed into new charred oak barrels for a period of at least two years before it is blended together, proofed down, and bottled for sale.
Packaging
We’ve seen this bottle before, time and again. I think I associate it most strongly with the Old Forester Statesman product — roughly cylindrical in shape, with a flared base, outward tapering sides, rounded shoulder, and a medium length neck. Nothing to write home about, but this is a classic liquor bottle design for a good reason. People like it, and as uninteresting as it may be, I can’t knock them for that choice.
Moving on to the label, this reminds me of old bank notes or stock certificates, especially with the “money green” color of the paper. The spiral embellishment along the top and bottom is what’s giving off that “anti counterfeiting” vibe, along with the faux watermark on the body of the label. Otherwise, the design is fairly straightforward and simple, with large block lettering and clear annunciation of the brand name.
Neat
Just like we saw with their “Standard” product, this spirit has a great color to it. A dark amber with some golden and rusty highlights, it’s a little darker than that other bottle but not by much. And also just like that other product, the aromas are fantastic. I’m getting some notes of crisp apple, toffee caramel, toasted brown sugar, raisins, dried figs, walnuts, and a bit of vanilla. The big hint there is the crisp apple — that’s a typical telltale note that you’ve got a rye whiskey and not just a bourbon on your hands.
My biggest complaint with their bourbon was that the richness of the aroma didn’t translate into a richness of flavor. Thankfully, though, that’s a complaint I don’t have to repeat here.
As soon as you take a sip, you’ll notice a buttery smooth mouth feel to the spirit, which comes packaged together with some deliciously rich and well-saturated flavors. There’s an immediate hit of sweetness from some delicious brown sugar, which is quickly joined and balanced out with some crisp apple flavor. Also in the mix in that first part of the flavor profile are some dried fruits like apricots and figs, and some cedar chips. Wait a couple beats and that’s joined by some spicy black pepper and more crisp apple — both classic components you’d want and expect in a rye whiskey. On the finish, that black peppery spice persists, albeit a little more mellow than at first, with vanilla and brown sugar as the flavor eventually drifts and fades away.
On Ice
I like bourbon… but I love rye. And the reason is all about how it reacts to ice and cocktails. Bourbon has a tendency to be a one-trick pony, but rye brings texture and spice to the experience that doesn’t seem likely to be extinguished with the addition of a bit of ice. The flavors also have a tendency to be a bit more saturated, which helps them survive better amongst the icebergs. Thankfully, both of these features are happening in this glass — and the result might actually be better than when I sipped this neat.
Right up front, I think what’s happened is that the ice has slightly attenuated the spicy rye content and allowed more of the flavors to poke through. I’m getting a clearer picture of the dried figs and raisins than I did before, combined with some toasted brown sugar, a bit of dark chocolate, and just a hint of crisp apple. It’s a much more delicious experience than before and a really enjoyable sipper.
On the finish, the spice from the black pepper returns, adding some complexity and texture to the drink. It isn’t overpowering or bitter, instead just an enjoyable addition that makes this all the more interesting to sip.
Cocktail (Old Fashioned)
Darker and richer old fashioned cocktails are absolutely my thing. I personally feel like there’s more enjoyment to be had in a flavor profile so thick you need to cut it with a knife (compared to a fruity and vibrant mess like you often find from the mid-century versions of this cocktail), and that Batman-esque dark and brooding vibe is exactly what we have here today.
Just like we saw when taken on the rocks, the darker dried fruits have really come out and made themselves known since the ice went into this drink. Specifically, the dried figs, brown sugar, and hint of dark chocolate do an excellent job balancing out the herbaceous bitters and providing a delicious cocktail.
One complaint I do have is that there’s just a tiny hint of bitterness going on here. I feel like the bitters and the black pepper spice have accentuated each other in a positive feedback loop and do make for a moment of unbalance, but as long as you throw a cube of sugar in there you should be good to go. I just have a tendency to try these without any simple syrup or sugar at first, and adjust as necessary.
Fizz (Mule)
As soon as I took my first sip of this rye whiskey, I knew that this was where it was going to lead: a delicious spicy, well balanced mule.
The two things I look for here are that 1) the flavors are balanced, and 2) that the rye whiskey brings something interesting and unique to the experience (rather than the bland and uninteresting moscow mule experience with a vodka). And this bottle hits the mark on both.
Those dried fruits and brown sugar notes that came through so nicely on the rocks and in the old fashioned are perfect for this application, and balance out the ginger beer and lime juice with skill and precision. It’s a delicious mixture that is easily sippable on a warm summer day. And then, just when you think it’s over, the black pepper kicks in and adds some texture and complexity that you might not have been expecting. Basically a perfect Kentucky mule.
Overall Rating
I’ve really come to appreciate the North Carolina spirits that I’ve found so far, and this rye whiskey is a great capstone on that initial foray into tarheel whiskey. It’s a well executed and good tasting rye that has depth and complexity to it, and which works great on the rocks and in cocktails. But it does struggle a bit when taken neat, with the cedar chips and black pepper seeming to cover up some of the more complex flavors that we see later.
This is one of those spirits where I think it’s fine as-is — well priced, well executed, and worth the time — but could use a bit longer in the barrel. I feel like two more years in contact with some oak and this could really blossom into something amazing. But even without that, this is good enough for a permanent spot on my shelf.
| Southern Distilling Co. Southern Star Double Rye Produced By: Southern Distilling Co. Production Location: North Carolina, United StatesClassification: Straight Rye Whiskey Aging: No Age Statement (NAS) Proof: 44% ABV Price: $39.95 / 750 ml Overall Rating:    |
Overall Rating: 3.5/5
A well executed rye whiskey with some darker and richer flavors, and I’d love to see with a version with a little extra time in a barrel.